A year ago, my hiking partner, Ken Huff and I started the 221 JMT in Yosemite and headed south. We had ambitions to go straight through, but that didn’t happen. Thanks to a plethora of giant, weeping, raw and bleeding blisters, we were forced to stop, after 80+ miles, at the Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR). We vouched to return and complete the JMT the following year.
Rested, wiser and ready, we flew back in California. This time, we hiked North, starting at the bottom of Mt. Whitney in Lone Pine, CA and finished at the VVR, thus completing the 221 mile JMT.
Below are my journal entries from Round 2: The JMT – North to South (VVR)
The Start of the JMT – Day 1 (August 21)
Oh my goodness the altitude is making this hard. When you live in the East and the highest mountain is under 7,000 feet, there is nothing you can do to acclimate for this.
We started at Whitney Portal with my pack weighing in at 45 lbs. and Ken’s at 54 lbs. We are carrying at least 10 days of food between us. It took us 6 hours to climb 6 miles and gain 3,710 ft. We are spending night in our tent at a very windy Trail Camp at 12,040 ft. I have a mild headache from the altitude but feel good overall. Just feel out of shape from the ascent.
We ate PB & J on burrito shells for dinner. Yummy! Going to bed by 7:30 am to get up early and summit Mt. Whitney:-)
Day 2 (August 22)
Even 75 MPH winds and freezing temperatures couldn’t stop us from summiting Mt. Whitney!!! It kicked our butts and was SO worth it! It was breathtaking at the top. We signed the register next to the little stone hut at top. Someone put one of those ‘EASY’ buttons in the metal register box. Trust me, its NOT easy, but it is doable. You just have to try.
I spread some of my mother’s ashes at the top like I have done on Kilimanjaro, Fuji, Andes, Sinai, Petra, Pyramids and at the Coliseum in Rome. If she were alive, I know she would have done many of these adventures with me. I miss her
Day 3 (August 23)
Camping in a meadow tonight @ 11,100 ft, between South America Junction and Highest Tyndall Creek Crossing.
I am so sore!! Everything aches. These first 3 days are kicking my butt. Between the altitude adjustment and rocky terrain, I don’t think there are enough lunges, squats and miles I could run to get me ready for this trip… but they do help!
After summiting Mt. Whitney and going down the steep switchbacks towards Guitar Lake I slipped on a wet rock and CRASHED! I literally heard a crack in my right ankle. I was like “ohhh come on!! Its only day 2 and I am not stopping. With Ken’s help, I gingerly got back on my feet and I was able to put some pressure on my foot. Thank GOD for trekking poles!
When we got to camp I took my shoes off and put my foot in the ice cold Guitar Lake water. My ankle and foot is very swollen and tender. There is a golf ball sized lump on my outside ankle. We are going to finish the JMT whether I broke it or sprained it. I’m to stubborn to stop!
Day 4 (August 24)
We are camping in the woods by a stream below Bullfrog Lake Junction. Its beautiful here. There are two buck deer (10 pts & 8 pts) lingering by our site. I want to pet them 🙂
Hiked about 13 miles today and climbed over the 2nd highest pass on the JMT, Forester Pass (13,200 ft). I’m glad that is done.
Day 5 (August 25)
We met the coolest couple today. I swear I am like Forrest Gump! We met Ralph and Danielle Drollinger from LA. He is 7’1″ tall!! Huge! Ken was a peanut @ 6’4″ next to him. Ralph played basketball @ UCLA in their ‘hay-day’ with Kareem Abdul-Jabbar and did a short stint in the NBA before a knee injury forced him to retire. We happened to camp in the same area as them below Sawmill Pass Junction. We sat around the fire tonight trading stories and eating pop-tarts. I wonder how often 2 random former professional ball players meet on the trail?
Day 6 (August 26)
Today we decided not to bother purifying our water. The ultraviolent sterile pen is only working part of the time and we know the locals just drink right from the streams. We’ll know within a week if we’re good on this decision;-) I’m not worried!
We knocked off Pinchot Pass (12,130 ft.) by noon and made our way down the dusty, sandy switchbacks. It was overcase and got nippy so we threw on long sleeve shirts. Later we put on ponchos for a bit as it rained and hailed for about 20 minutes. Glad they came into use! I hate packing something and not using it!
Our food situation is getting a little short. We have left: 4 freeze dried dinners, 2 chicken chunk, 2 tuna, 2 salmon pouches, 8 whole-wheat wraps, 2 granola bars, 6 fruit roll-ups and 2 cups of trail mix. It sounds like a lot but when you are climbing 10+ hours a day in the mountains with 40+ lbs packs you burn at least 4,000 calories a day. We have enough to make it to the VVR in 4 days but will only be able to consume about 800 calories each a day. I personally don’t mind burning a little fat off the bod, but know we need food for energy. Maybe we’ll stop at MTR to see what hiker ‘donations’ they have to offer. Its only 2 miles out of our way and a 1 & 1/2 days away from VVR.
Day 7 (August 27)
A bit disheartened this evening. I’m just tired. We hiked for over 11 hours and only made 16 miles.
Went over Mather Pass and down the treacherous ‘Golden Staircase.’ The decent was worse than the ascent as it was very steep, rocky, huge stone steps and lots of switchbacks. Poor Ken, I know his knees are shot and we still have 3 more days and 2 passes to go!
Day 8 (August 28)
We hiked almost 12 hours, over Muir Pass (12,000 ft) and 20 miles today! Feet and legs are achy and blisters on toes are making themselves known… I’m not complaining. It goes with the territory when you love hiking in mountains:-) Its so beautiful here.
Day 9 (August 29)
We took a 2 mile detour to stop by Muir Trail Ranch to see if they had a cabin for the night. They didn’t. Rumor on the trail says its going to snow tonight. My tent is only rated for 3 seasons so I am a little concerned.
We did get to scavange through their ‘hikers barrels’. So many hikers ship to the MTR for resupply. Ken and I didn’t do a resupply but know the MTR would be giving away extras (‘donations’) hikers leave or never pick up. We scored some Nutter Butter cookies… I LOVE those things! A Chicken Teriyaki MRE dinner, trail mix, whole wheat pitas and peanut butter!! YUM!!!
Day 10 (August 30)
It snowed yesterday afternoon and last night! Frost and ice covered our tent this morning. It was 10F outside and 35F inside the tent this AM. Thank goodness my sleeping bag is rated for +15F. I hate being cold!!!
We are hiking over our last mountain pass, Sheldon Pass ( just under 11,000 feet) today. Yeeehhhhh!!! We will do 20 miles today to get to the VVR. I can’t wait!!! It will be so nice to sleep in a real bed and eat a hot cooked meal other then an MRE:-)
Day 11 (August 31) We FINISHED the 221 John Muir Trail!!
After summiting Mt. Whitney (14,496 ft.-the highest Mt. in the continental USA), backpacking 130 miles, 800+ switchbacks and the equivalent of climbing Mt. Fuji 10 days in a row we have completed the 211 mile JMT (having done the 1st half last year). Yeeehaw!!
We are nursing our blisters and enjoying a few days at the Vermilion Valley Resort…I use that term ‘loosely’ as its a backpackers oasis in the Sierras. Instead of staying in a tent, we upgraded to a run down 1970’s trailer with a view of Lake Thomas Edison. It is AWESOME! Most importantly, they have the most amazing bacon cheeseburgers 🙂 …. my favorite thing to eat after an adventure! I’m SO American!
